Posted 20 hours ago

Premier Range Rapid Grab Glass Splashback Adhesive

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A watered down PVA or SBR solution should do the job. Once brushed on to the wall and dry, this will seal the wall and also provide a good "key" for bonding adhesive. Seal up the Worktop

Our vivid colours range is extensive - with the perfect match for your tiles, worktop or cooker hood. Colours include Lime Green, Fuchsia Pink, Chocolate Brown and Deep Purple! Using a drill and a suitable drill bit for acrylic, drill four holes into the inner corners of the rectangle you drew. Place a piece of wood underneath each hole as you drill to prevent splintering. Remember not to force the drill through. Let it run through at its own pace! If measured by the manufacturer, all measurements should be taken accurately by someone with the experience necessary to ensure they are correctApply the adhesive to the rear of the glass in dollops. Each dollop will need to be roughly 20 – 30mm in size and they will need to be spaced about 80mm apart. Also ensure that the dollops around the edge of the glass are set in about 40mm as when it is pushed against the wall these will spread out and you don’t want them spilling out from around the edges.

You’ll also want to clamp a wooden batten onto the acrylic so that when you run your saw against it, it will cut directly along the line. The batten will ensure the cut is perfectly straight, and there’s no chance of “going off” at an angle with your saw. 6. Cutting the Acrylic Once the surface has been prepared and all loose material removed give it a good wipe over with a suitable cleaning agent to remove any dust or grease.Once you’ve drilled four holes, slot a jigsaw into one hole at a time and cut along the straight lines to remove the rest of the rectangular outline. 9. Smooth Cut Edges Unless either of the above applies to you, the simplest and easiest method is adhesive. Regardless of which you choose, we’ll take you through each method in this guide.

If you have to join two separate lengths of acrylic, you have two options. The first is to butt the two pieces of acrylic together, and providing you’ve cut two perfect edges, they should meet up against one another to provide a seamless finish. If cut correctly, you shouldn’t even notice the join. Many people believe toughened glass is made in the same manner as normal glass and then any work that is needed such as cutting holes etc…. is carried out on the toughened glass. This is not true. All glass work is done to ordinary glass (be it laminated, plate, georgian glass etc….) and then the glass is toughened afterwards.Measure the total width and height of acrylic needed and then mark it on your plan (remember to leave 1mm or so top and bottom). Where it needs to cut in round any cupboards or other items, measure this also, again leaving a slight gap for movement. We have two options available for this step: glue or screws. As mentioned previously, the method you choose depends on how transparent your acrylic is and whether you wish to change it later. As glass does not bend the surface will need to be flat and any undulations will need to be smoothed out, with any major dips of holes filled with a suitable filler and then sanded down.

The filing itself will remove the majority of the major burrs but it is also best to use some wet and dry paper to give it the final finish. If you find that there are extreme dips over large sections of the surface (more than 6mm in depth) it is propably worth considering getting the entire surface re-plastered ( more information can be found in our plastering projects section). Clean and Seal the WallWhat could be more hygienic than glass? Its smooth, stain resistant surface, means there's no grout to trap germs and bacteria, easy to clean, smooth surface and most good cleaning products will bring the dirt and grime straight off - in fact, we also offer glassupstands so you can replace all of your tired tiles and grout for a beautiful and modern alternative.

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